Top Tips for Tagazhout and Tamraght, Morocco
Jean Genie (my blue 2006 Citroen C6 minivan) and I officially began our new life together over a month ago when we drove from Berlin to Toulouse. Why Toulouse? Because there was a super cheap flight to Morocco from there, that's why!!
I sadly left Jean Genie in a car park outside the Toulouse airport for three weeks while I soaked up some Vitamin D, practiced my surf skills, drank all the mint tea, ate all the tagine, watched all the sunsets, and pet all the stray dogs and cats. The truth is it’s still too cold in Europe for my desert bones.
That’s the reason I decided to spend the last three weeks exploring two cute surfer villages including Tagazhout and Tamraght. I highly recommend doing the same if you are hoping to escape the depressive European winter or want to try your luck at learning to surf in calm waters. Temperatures were around 20 degrees Celsius every day, and there was lots of sunshine and plenty of happy smiling faces. Since I had such a great time and met a lot of really friendly people, I am considering returning very soon, this time with my van Jean Genie. It seems to be a very popular location for camper vans.
Below are some of the places I most frequented and loved while I was there.
Tagazhout
A no-frills streetside eatery where you can get fish tagine which includes two big pieces of fish, veggies, and bread for only 30 Dhm (about 3 euros). Don’t forget to add a mint tea to your order (~15 Dhm). Cash only.
A seaside restaurant where you can work on your laptop with the gentle sound of the waves as your background. They offer fresh juices, Moroccan cuisine, and, of course, mint tea. Prices are a bit more, but still VERY affordable (50 Dhm for Veggie Tagine) and the view is priceless. Traditional Berber musicians will wander from table to table to perform a song for you. I have a soft spot for musicians and always try to tip them. Plus I love Berber music!! There is also a huge terrace where you can chill on when you need a break from wandering around. Credit cards are accepted but only above 100 Dhm.
MOVED - Simo’s Vintage Shop
**It’s been brought to my attention that Simo has relocated his shop and in addition, now offers a camper van parking area on his land in Essaouira, outside of Sidi Kaouki. His Tagazhout location is no longer in operation, but he’s more than happy to accept visitors at his new location! More info here.
A friend and I were wandering around Tagazhout and found Simo's magical little shop tucked away on a side street. It's quite small but once you're in there and see all the treasures he has the place seems to triple in size. Simo is also a very special human, welcoming us in and preparing us tea while we tried on clothes. He's got some amazing pieces and fair prices. If you are looking for a one-of-a-kind souvenir or just a great experience overall, definitely stop by and say hi :) His merchandise changes often. Though be warned, the opening of his shop is dependent on surf conditions so if he isn’t there when you drop by, come back later when the waves have died down. Cash only.
Tamraght
Ok this is definitely a place catered to tourists but their food is top-notch so I must mention it. I recommend ordering the mushroom tacos, potato wedges, and exotic smoothie but anything you order there is going to blow you away. It’s also a great place to work on your laptop (they have Wifi) and also accept credit cards. I love the outside seating area especially when a stray cat or dog wanders by and takes a nap by your feet. Prices are a bit more than the other restaurants in the area, but worth it! Expect to pay between 100-150 Dhm a person for food and drinks.
This place is very affordably priced and serves up decent Moroccan food. Try the Veggie Tagine (I found the chicken one pretty dry) or if it’s breakfast time, take the sampler platter (I forgot the name, but it includes all the various spreads, bread, omelet, and coffee). The Date Avocado Orange Juice smoothie is to die for, so make sure to try one! The place is super cozy and they also offer free Wifi so you can work there. Cash only.
You can rent a surfboard and wetsuit for only 100 Dhm for the day here. You can also chill on the terrace on their bean bag chairs. They also offer yoga but I didn’t attend any sessions. Cash only.
Honorable Mentions
Paradies Quad - I stayed here the last week of my trip but I wish I had found it sooner. The vibe of the place was very chill. They have an in-house cleaner so the common areas are always super tidy. I rented a room and shared a bathroom with one other person on my floor. There is a kitchen where you can prepare meals and two terraces where you can chill and watch the sunset. I paid through Airbnb.
Mint tea on the beach - 20 Dh, there was nothing better than getting out of the sea after getting thrashed around by the waves and then getting served a delicious warm mint tea. There will be many people wandering around asking if you want tea, don’t turn them down! You won’t be disappointed :) Cash only.
Souk El Had in Agadir - About a 30-minute drive from Tamraght, the big marketplace in Agadir is a must-see. I had a delicious breakfast at one of the cafes featuring pea soup, bread with amlou (almond butter) and various spreads, and a large avocado smoothie for just 35 Dhs. Not only is it just fun to walk around and soak up all the sites but it’s a great place to buy souvenirs. I picked up some spices and spiced coffee. Cash only.
Hamam - If you are feeling adventurous you can hop over to the local hamam after you do your shopping which is about a 7-minute walk away from the Souk. There you will get the opportunity to have all your most intimate parts scrubbed smooth by a topless Moroccan grandma, 50 Dh for the scrub and 30 Dh for the soap and loofah. Cash only.
Morocco Animal Aid - I spent two days volunteering at this establishment which is about 10 minutes outside of Tamraght (I took a taxi there for 50 Dhs and walked back). They help street animals recover from injuries as well as get them adopted. I had the pleasure of walking a few dogs and just spending some time giving some of them love. FREE.
Have you been to this area of Morocco? Did I leave any of your favorite joints off the list?
Yesterday I Was Happy, Today I Am Successful
Every so often I give myself a hard time. I make myself feel bad about not developing enough sellable skills that will make me more successful in the eyes of capitalism or spending all my money on plane tickets. Or I beat myself up about not having a 401k, a Master’s degree, or an age-appropriate wardrobe.
But today - today I feel successful. Let me tell you why.
After walking an hour towards a secret beach, I had to turn around and walk back in the same direction. The final twenty minutes of the journey happened to be alongside a swampy river I deemed “Crocodile Soup River” for its ominous overgrowth and precarious nature - and I just didn’t feel safe enough to venture onward. When I finally reached the main pathway to Quepos, a no-frills working-class city outside of the touristic zone and national park, I decided to take a break and sat down on a concrete bench overlooking the beach. I was on the second day of my period and bleeding quite heavily. In fact, I had already bled through my jean shorts. Normally I take it easy on the first few days of my flow for this exact reason but alas, I was in Costa Rica and wanted to explore every nook and cranny while I could (except for maybe the Crock Soup River.)
As I sat there and looked out at the horizon, I began to contemplate my life and felt overcome with happiness at the dream I had made a reality. I had been fantasizing about coming to Costa Rica for a while and in true Nicole fashion I could not just go for one or two weeks. I had to stay there for at least a month so I could feel like I truly lived there. And oh how much fun I had already been having just one week in.
Just as I began to scribble my happy thoughts in my journal, however, two adolescent girls, probably 11 or 12 sat down right next to me. I found it odd considering the bench directly next to us was completely empty. But then, I realized that they were actually acting very nervous. They were constantly glancing towards the right and then talking rapidly to one another.
I sensed their nervousness and said, “Are you ok?” They responded, in Spanish, that they didn’t speak any English. With my little knowledge of Spanish, I gathered that they were trying to hide from the man in a blue shirt, who happened to be sitting several benches down. My mama bear instinct kicked in and I quickly pulled out my translator app out and typed out, “Do you need me to walk you somewhere?”
“No, we are waiting for our ride,” one of the girls mentioned. At least that’s what I understood. Then one of them received a phone call and I inferred that their ride was close by. A few minutes later they stood up to leave and they said goodbye. I made eye contact and blew them an affirmative kiss. Though we couldn’t speak the same language they seemed to understand that I was telling them to be safe.
I already had plans to go to dinner so I stood up after them. That’s when I saw a man in a blue shirt a few benches down also stand up and begin following them from a distance.
So I did what any mama bear would do and I began to follow the man in the blue shirt who was following the girls. Though he was creepy I didn’t feel afraid of him. I could have easily kicked him in the nutsack and been on my merry way. My priority was on making sure the girls got to wherever they were going.
I had my phone clutched in my right hand as I sauntered slowly behind the blue-shirt man. Though my battery was low and I had no idea what the emergency hotline was in Costa Rica, I felt safe with my phone clutched tightly. I guess the blue shirt man started to suspect I was following him and perhaps he thought I was calling for backup. I didn’t want any trouble so I quickly crossed the street, my eye still on the girls far in front of me. The man glanced at me several times before stopping completely and sitting on a concrete slab in front of the bus station.
The girls were far enough ahead that I felt confident enough to let them continue on their own. I tucked away into the restaurant and let myself process what just happened.
What just happened is that two young girls, who could have been my children had I chosen to have them at a young age, felt that I was a safe haven for them, a place where they could seek shelter from a creepy man. And I must say I felt rather accomplished with this awareness.
Sure I don’t own a house. Every cent I save goes to fund my next adventure. I’ve been called every version of cheap you can imagine but I’ve seen more countries in the last year than most Americans will see in their entire lives. I also don’t have a family of my own. I never really wanted kids in my 20s because I was afraid they’d interfere with my nomadic lifestyle. A few years ago, however, like many women in their late thirties, I began wondering if I should have children. When my long-term partnership ended last year, I had to come to terms with the fact that I may never become a mom. And I’m not going to lie, it makes me sad sometimes, but I think that’s only because I haven’t heard of many (or any) women in their late thirties, or early forties who are living amazing lives, who are thriving, are fit and glowing and feeling fulfilled - and don’t have children.
But what I learned today is that though I am not a mom of my own kids, I can be a mom to the world. I can be a safe haven for anyone who needs reprieve at the moment. I can be that for others because I have learned to be that for myself. Traveling the world has built a kind of inner resilience and strength that is hard to come by otherwise. So while I may not own a house or have a pension, I know how to get myself and others out of some precarious situations, like avoiding becoming a Crocodile’s soufflé of the day or um, getting kidnapped.
I also know how to live.
Yesterday I hiked to several beaches before landing at one that was straight out of a magazine. As I was laying in the sand praying that I was not bleeding through my swimsuit onto the towel I snuck from my Airbnb, these words popped into my head, “This is the happiest day of my life, I am so happy right now.”
And it was true. Pura vida.
What does success mean to you? Do you think you are successful? Why or why not?
Get Out of Your Own Damn Way
I can’t tell you how long I’ve had “write NNM newsletter/blog” on my to-do list. I’ve been so busy juggling my paid clients that I kept pushing my own projects further and further down the list. This also goes for my other project, www.ReproJustice.com.
At one point, I even tried to wrangle my sister into the ReproJustice project so she could help me manage it while I spun other things. She seemed into the idea at first, but when I saw that she wasn’t fueling it with as much enthusiasm and passion as I wanted her to, I was a bit disappointed:
“This project was cool! We could really empower a lot of women. Why didn’t she get it?”
And then, the more logical voice in my head, answered back:
“Because she has her own life, dummy.”
Let me get this straight, this post is by no means an opportunity to say that my sister let me down.
My point is that she has her own damn life; she is a mama who happens to be raising the cutest, chubbiest, smartest little six-month-old. How could I expect her to attack MY dream with the same fervor and maniacal tenacity that I would? For the first time, it became very clear that I was actually the one copping out on myself. Go figure.
I was giving more priority to my clients’ dreams than my own. One of the reasons why I like to think my clients continue to work with me is that I’m dependable. When I say I’m going to do something, I do it. So why didn’t I have that same determination for my own projects?
Well, not anymore folks. I’ve been working really hard to reach that beautiful balance that makes me feel good about every single thing I give my time and attention to.
Here are the things that I need to prioritize, are they similar to yours?
- Traveling- I begin to get anxiety if I stay in the same place too long. While I love having a comfortable home environment, a tight-knit group of friends, and a familiar daily routine, I also crave adventure. This is why I always have a trip I've recently come back from, and one that I am planning...last stop, Budapest, next stop, Mallorca!
- Music- The one thing that has always remained constant in my life, is my love of music. The excitement I feel when I stumble upon a song that rattles my bones, makes me feel like a kid on Christmas, seriously. Here is the latest song I'm obsessing over.
- Writing- I write a lot for my clients. Some projects allow a bit more creative freedom than others, but none of them are nearly as satisfying as sitting down and writing my own stories.
And here is the funny part, the more honest I become with myself, the more balanced I become in my life, the easier it is to be happy during the in-between moments. It’s kind of like the idea of putting your own life vest on before saving someone else. How could I feel truly, and deeply satisfied helping other people’s ideas and dreams come to fruition if I didn’t first prioritize my own?
And then, like a gift from the hysterical universe, my accountant recently told me that I can start expensing my travel costs and concert tickets as long as I am writing about the experiences. SAY WHAT? So you mean I can 1. travel, 2. go to festivals/concerts and then 3. write about them? I am officially "living the dream".
Well played, universe.
And just to wrap things up, my sis is still one badass bitch. Though she isn’t playing the role that I was projecting on to her, (haha, sounds even sillier when I type it out), she is still helping out the project in many other ways. Occasionally she sends me interesting articles for the ReproJustice social media channels and recently she even coordinated a guest contribution for the site.
When you feel like things aren’t going your way, please realize that it is most likely your own self-doubt holding you hostage. Once you get out of your own damn way, you’ll start to realize just how many opportunities are out there, waiting for your embrace.
May your path be forever lined with a plethora of low-hanging fruit, ripe for the pickin'.